Doublet vs. Jerkin

Attribute	Doublet	Jerkin
Origin	France	England
Style	Tight-fitting jacket	Loose-fitting jacket
Material	Rich fabrics like velvet, silk	Leather or wool
Sleeves	Attached, long sleeves	Short or no sleeves
Collar	High standing collar	Low or no collar
Decoration	Elaborate embroidery, jewels	Minimal decoration
Popular Era	16th century	16th-17th century

Introduction

When it comes to historical fashion, the doublet and jerkin are two iconic garments that have left a lasting impact. Both originating in the medieval period, these garments were worn by men of various social classes. While they share some similarities, they also have distinct attributes that set them apart. In this article, we will explore the characteristics of the doublet and jerkin, highlighting their construction, purpose, materials, and styles.

Construction

The construction of a doublet involves a close-fitting garment that typically extends to the waist or hips. It is often made of multiple layers of fabric, with the outer layer being more decorative. Doublets are commonly fastened at the front with buttons or laces, allowing for easy removal. They feature a variety of sleeve styles, including long, short, or even sleeveless designs. The doublet is known for its tailored fit, emphasizing the wearer's physique.

On the other hand, a jerkin is a looser-fitting garment that falls to the waist or slightly below. It is usually made from a single layer of fabric, providing less structure compared to the doublet. Jerkins are often fastened with buttons or ties at the front, similar to doublets. However, they can also be sleeveless or have short sleeves. The loose fit of the jerkin allows for greater freedom of movement, making it a practical choice for various activities.

Purpose

The doublet served both functional and fashionable purposes. It was primarily worn as an undergarment, providing additional warmth and support. The close fit of the doublet also helped to shape the body, creating a more desirable silhouette. Over time, doublets became more ornate and were worn as outer garments, displaying the wearer's wealth and social status. They were often paired with other garments such as hose, breeches, and codpieces to complete the ensemble.

Similarly, the jerkin had a dual purpose. Originally, it was worn as a protective layer over the doublet, providing an extra barrier against the elements. Jerkins were commonly worn by laborers, soldiers, and individuals engaged in outdoor activities. However, as fashion evolved, jerkins became more stylish and were adopted by the upper classes as well. They were often made from luxurious materials and adorned with decorative elements, transforming them into fashionable garments.

Materials

Doublets were typically made from a variety of materials, depending on the wearer's social status and the intended purpose. Common fabrics included wool, linen, silk, and velvet. The outer layer of the doublet was often embellished with embroidery, brocade, or other decorative elements. The inner layers provided warmth and comfort, with padding sometimes added for extra insulation.

Jerkins, on the other hand, were commonly made from more durable materials such as leather or heavy-duty fabrics like canvas. These materials offered better protection against wear and tear, making jerkins suitable for outdoor activities. However, as jerkins became more fashionable, they started to incorporate luxurious materials like velvet or silk for the upper classes. The choice of material for a jerkin depended on both its intended use and the wearer's social standing.

Styles

Doublets came in various styles throughout history. In the early medieval period, they were often sleeveless or had short sleeves, allowing for ease of movement. As fashion evolved, doublets with long sleeves became more popular. The sleeves could be tight-fitting or puffed, depending on the prevailing trends. Doublets also featured different necklines, including high collars, low collars, or even no collar at all. The overall style of the doublet varied based on the wearer's social class and the fashion of the time.

Jerkins, on the other hand, had a simpler and more utilitarian style. They were typically sleeveless or had short sleeves, allowing for greater freedom of movement. Jerkins often had a straight or slightly flared silhouette, providing a comfortable fit. The design of jerkins was less influenced by fashion trends and more focused on practicality. However, as they became more fashionable, jerkins started to incorporate decorative elements such as embroidery, buttons, or trimmings.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the doublet and jerkin are two distinct garments with their own unique attributes. The doublet, with its tailored fit and multiple layers, emphasized fashion and social status. It served both functional and fashionable purposes, evolving over time to become a symbol of wealth and style. On the other hand, the jerkin offered a looser fit and practicality, originally serving as a protective layer for outdoor activities. As fashion changed, jerkins became more fashionable and incorporated luxurious materials.

While the doublet and jerkin may have different construction, purpose, materials, and styles, they both played significant roles in historical fashion. Whether worn by nobles or commoners, these garments left a lasting impact on the way men dressed during the medieval period and beyond.